October 11, 2022

By Elmwood's Auctioneers

When collectors and connoisseurs think of elegant and timeless jewels, they think of Cartier’s Tutti Frutti creations.

Since the first piece, a necklace, was created by Pierre Cartier as a commission for Queen Alexandra in 1901, these Indian-inspired masterpieces have become synonymous with Cartier’s innovative, legendary design. This royal commission paved the way for these extraordinary jewels to adorn maharajas, heiresses and aristocrats across the globe. 

This perfect fusion of Eastern and Western inspired design, elegant platinum gold and diamonds surrounding Mughal carved gemstones, finds itself within some of Cartier’s most spectacular jewels including brooches, necklaces, powder cases and jabot pins. But without doubt, the most iconic, statement and collectable Tutti Frutti pieces are bracelets.

The term ‘Tutti Frutti’, despite applying to Cartier jewels of this type for over a century, was only coined in 1970, quickly becoming a term synonymous with iconic elegance and taste.  

For over a century, names well-associated with style have adorned these creations. Daisy Fellowes, the sewing machine heiress is regularly cited as the owner of some of the most elaborate pieces, notably a Tutti Frutti necklace commissioned in 1936 and is now in the possession of the Cartier Collection. Many Tutti Frutti pieces emerging in recent years have been incorporated into both growing and well established collections, by both private collectors and institutions. 

The Vicereine of India and later Countess Mountbatten of Burma, Edwina Mountbatten, bought a Bandeau tiara from Cartier in November 1928. This extraordinary jewel has been widely documented and was seen as such an important piece of British jewellery making history that the UK government placed a temporary export ban on the piece before its last sale in 2004. It currently resides in the permanent jewellery exhibit in the Bollinger Gallery of the Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A). 

Adorned with vibrant Mughal carved emeralds, rubies and sapphires representing its Eastern origins, the bracelet settles back within its Art Deco period with its pave set diamond clasp and frame.

Elmwood’s have had the privilege of selling many Tutti Frutti jewels over the years, most recently selling a rare and important early 20th century gem set and diamond bracelet, obtaining the highest price for a piece of Cartier Tutti Frutti jewellery in the UK since 2015.

With a global network of buyer’s and an international presence, Elmwood’s is the ideal place to both buy and sell your jewellery. With 0% seller’s fees and lifetime authenticity guarantee, you can sell, bid, buy and love with complete confidence. Contact us today for a free, no obligation expert valuation, whether that be for a single item or an entire collection.

For more information on any upcoming lots, explore our upcoming auctions under the ‘Auctions’ tab above.