Under the Loupe: Van Cleef & Arpels

A jewellery icon

Since its inception in 1896, Van Cleef & Arpels has become a renowned French jewellery house synonymous with luxury, elegance, and innovation. This iconic brand has built a reputation for producing sophisticated and exquisite pieces that have been coveted by royalty, celebrities, and high society around the world.

The story of Van Cleef & Arpels began with the marriage of Estelle Arpels, the daughter of a precious stones dealer, to Alfred Van Cleef, the son of a lapidary. This now famous couple combined their expertise, opening their first jewellery boutique at Place Vendôme, Paris in 1906. The house quickly gained a reputation for creating unique and stunning jewels using the highest quality precious stones and innovative techniques.

In the early days, their designs were inspired by the natural world, incorporating flowers, animals, and insects into their jewellery. They also became famous for their innovation of the ‘Mystery Setting’ technique, allowing them to set stones in such a way that the prongs were invisible, creating a seamless and graceful effect of the stones floating upon the jewel they were set in. 

Over the years, Van Cleef has created many iconic pieces that have become part of jewellery history, including the iconic Zip necklace, designed by Renée Puissant in the 1930s inspired the Duchess of Windsor and the fascination with the new fastener at the time. Another is the Alhambra collection, which features the four-leaf clover motif and has become one of the brand’s signature designs.

Van Cleef & Arpels has also been a favourite of many famous clients throughout its history, including Grace Kelly, Marlene Dietrich, Elizabeth Taylor, and the Maharani of Baroda. The Maharani commissioned the brand to create pieces that incorporated the famous Baroda pearls, which resulted in some of the most exquisite pearl jewellery ever created.

Today, Van Cleef & Arpels continues to create stunning jewellery that is both elegant and innovative. Its collection has expanded to include watches, accessories, and fragrance, as well as high jewellery. The brand has also launched several philanthropic initiatives, including supporting the study and preservation of the natural world, and promoting arts and culture.

One of Van Cleef’s newest collections is the Perlée collection, which features jewellery that is playful and fun, with an emphasis on texture and movement. The house has also launched a new high jewellery collection called L’Arche de Noé, which celebrates the beauty and wonder of the animal kingdom. The collection includes stunning pieces that incorporate a variety of precious stones, including diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, and rubies.

Van Cleef & Arpels has and always continues to innovate and experiment with new techniques and materials. The maison has developed new ways of setting stones, including a technique called Serti Vibrant, which creates a shimmering effect by allowing the stones to move slightly. They have also experimented with coloured gold and developed a new alloy called Dreamgold, which has a unique colour and texture.

Elmwood’s have had the privilege of selling many Van Cleef & Arpels jewels over the years, most recently selling a an Important diamond, necklace, bracelet and brooch suite for over £90,000. 

If you would like to receive an expert valuation for a single piece or an entire collection of Van Cleef & Arpels jewellery, Elmwood’s are here to help you navigate this specialist market and achieve the highest prices possible. 

With a global network of buyer’s and an international presence, Elmwood’s is the ideal place to both buy and sell your jewellery. With 0% seller’s fees and lifetime authenticity guarantee, you can sell, bid, buy and love with complete confidence. 

Contact us today for a free, no obligation expert valuation.