February 28, 2024

Cameos and intaglios are excellent examples of how trends truly do always come back around.

Since antiquity, cameos and intaglios have been present throughout jewellery history, with these delicate pieces currently experiencing a major resurgence thanks to their timeless appeal and beauty. Available at a variety of price points, many pieces sell for above estimate at auction for example the cameo ring below that depicts a classical women in our Fine Jewellery auction on February 15th sold for more than estimated.

Cameo jewellery features a relief carving of a person, animal or scene typically made out of materials such as agate, onyx, or shell. In contrast, intaglio jewellery on the other hand consists of carvings that are usually on precious and semi-precious gemstones, a major luxury during ancient times. The effects of cameos and intaglios are somewhat similar, as the images below show, but due to the uniqueness of the reliefs and the varying materials, each piece has its own unique charm.

Cameos and intaglios are strongly associated with Classical figures and scenes from Ancient Greece and Rome, known to depict mythological figures and gods worshipped during those times. The ring below, for example, depicts the god Apollo, who was associated with archery, music, dance, truth and prophecy in ancient Greek mythology. Cameo and intaglio jewellery, because of their mythological associations, are thought to ward off evil spirits or bring good luck and fortune to those who wear them.

Cameos and intaglios were also used as seals in signet rings and fob pendants and acted as signatures, this was particularly useful in times when literacy rates were low. Each seal is distinct and usually included the family crest identifying the individual in question. The level of detail on such seals meant that the jewellery was expensive and thus very difficult for forgers to copy. Later on, towards the present day, cameo and intaglio jewellery with seals became objects of fashion as opposed to function and were instead worn to express the interests, allegiances, beliefs and persuasions of the wearer.

Cameos and intaglios have experienced revivals throughout history, including the Renaissance and the Victorian eras, becoming known as the “golden age” of cameo and intaglio jewellery. Cameos made out of shell were particularly popular and were still carved by hand, typically by artisans on the Italian coast. Cameo and intaglio jewellery was sometimes worn to represent a specific person or relationship.

Elmwood’s have had the privilege of selling many cameo and intaglio jewels over the years, including some of the infamous Poniatowski intaglios, seeing heated competition and high prices achieved. Initially considered as genuine classical pieces collected by Prince Stanlislas Poniatowski until his death in 1833, the subsequent and disastrous 1839 auction brought to light the modern nature of the carvings - being 19th century neoclassical copies rather than the original. Some of these copies are held in Museums around the world including the V&A, the Royal Society and the Met Museum in New York.

At Elmwood’s we can guarantee authenticity, as well as a transparent end-to-end auction service, whether buying or selling. As the company progresses, we are continuing to innovate the auction industry, making it accessible to all, while bringing a little bit of luxury, in the form of jewellery, watches or designer handbags within reach. And with 0% selling fees across all categories, it’s never been easier.

If you would like to receive an expert valuation for a single piece or an entire collection of intaglio or cameo jewellery, Elmwood’s are here to help you navigate this specialist market and achieve the highest prices possible. 

With a global network of buyers and an international presence, Elmwood’s is the ideal place to both buy and sell your jewellery. With 0% seller’s fees and lifetime authenticity guarantee, you can sell, bid, buy and love with complete confidence. 

Contact us today for a free, no obligation expert valuation.