Under the Loupe: Bulgari, from Rome to the Stars

Eternal Grace in the Eternal City

As Hollywood's glitterati descended on Rome, Via Condotti was impassable with clamouring paparazzi, screaming over one another in appeal to the celebrities luxuriating in Bulgari's marble-fronted store. Of her time filming Cleopatra, Elizabeth Taylor recalled "undeniably one of the biggest advantages to filming Cleopatra in Rome was Bulgari’s shop".

Via Condotti to Notting Hill – Bulgari at Elmwood's

As with Taylor's famous diamond and emerald parure, the star of the October 2023 Important Jewels sale encapsulated Bulgari's timeless designs. Acquired by a collector in Asia for over £80,000, this important Colombian emerald and diamond bracelet in platinum and 18ct white gold was set with five principal graduated octagonal step cut emeralds and six principal emerald cut diamonds, the emeralds all totalling 4.5-5.0 carats, the principal diamonds all totalling 5.0-5.5 carats, accented throughout with baguette and carre cut diamonds totalling 18.0-22.0 carats.

The bracelet embodies Bulgari's commitment to responsibly sourced gems. Today, jewels from India, Colombia, Africa, Madagascar, Sri Lanka, Myanmar and Australia among others are used in their designs, all of which are found by the illustrious Lucia Silvestri, Chief Gems Buyer & Jewelry Creative Director of Bulgari.

Nothing screams glamour like Bulgari, and nothing screams Bulgari like heavy gold and coloured gems.

From the 1980s, Bulgari released a series of iconic, easy-to-wear pieces which celebrated the soft, warm materiality of gold – crafting sumptuous rings and bracelets that elevated their coloured gems, making them gleam with all the vitality and excess of the time. Pictured above are several Bulgari highlights in this style from Elmwood's Important Jewels auction, 4 October. The group was 100% sold and included a duo of rings, set with a sapphire and ruby of beautiful colour, as well as a ladies Tubogas wristwatch that nods to Bulgari's first watch, the mysterious BULGARI ROMA. Given to the brand’s hundred best customers as a Christmas gift of 1975, it immediately caused a frenzy of refined, if you know you know desire. Last but certainly not least, is a diamond, curb chain necklace in 18ct yellow gold, exemplifying Bulgari's unique take on the curb chain necklace. As with much of Bulgari's canon, each piece in this group nods the maison's history, from motifs inspired by the Roman architecture that surrounded their famed Via Condotti store, to the shape of their trailblazing, Trombino ring that put them on the Jewellery world stage in the 1930s.

Contact our specialists now to see other peices by Bulgari in our upcoming jewellery auctions, and try on a little Roman glamour of your own.